Thursday, May 13, 2010

Mini-Striping Test Swatch

I have a few new colorways in my etsy shop that are "mini-striping." Some people have asked me "How does that knit up?" Well, instead of guessing, I knit a test swatch. This is a 4-color skein called "Earth That Was." It is fingering wt and knit at 8 sts per inch. The length of each color section is approximately equal (this dyelot had a shorter white section than usual).

Here it is...click on it to enlarge.


I've labeled how many sts around each area is. It got a little funky near the top because of the bend in the needle's cable.

Here's my observations at the different diameters:
16-20sts = nice mini-stripes
24-28sts = subtle spiral stripes
32-36sts = looks a bit variegated
40-48sts = funky pooling
52-56 = subtle mini- stripes
60sts = looks variegated again
64-80sts = spiral stripes that get wider as the diameter increases
84sts = the stripes start to turn the other direction.

Somewhere b/w 80 & 84 sts around you could get stable vertical pooling colors...maybe at 82sts or maybe at 84sts but knit at a tighter gauge (like 9-10spi).

The colorways that I've dyed recently that are like this: "Earth That Was/Mini-Stripes," "Green Glow/Mini-Stripes," "Browncoat/Mini-Stripes," and "Alliance Cruiser." Just remember that every knitter's gauge is different and your results may vary. Thank you to "craftdungeon" for letting me swatch from her skein :)

Monday, April 5, 2010

Addicted to Spinning

The Ravelympics took a lot out of me. I not only knit my first sweater, but also a heavily cabled hat, a pair of man-sized socks, and my first laceweight & beaded wrap...all in 17 days! Since then, I finished up a couple of outstanding WIPs (works in progress) and found I was not really motivated to start anything in my queue.

What to do??? Get back on the wheel, of course...the spinning wheel.

So I have finally finished spinning my first singles (single ply yarns) on my spinning wheel. And last night I tried something new...I Navajo plied one of them. Here are some pics.

Roving that I dyed with Easter egg dyes last year (superwash merino).


After plying and skeining on the niddy noddy.


A close-up


I still have the other half to ply...but that can wait till tonight :)LOL

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Selfish Knitting & Ravelympics

Wow! It's been AGES since I wrote something here. At least I can be rest assured that there aren't throngs of people who have been chomping at the bit to know what I've been up to :)LOL

Anyway...since we last met our "hero"
(term used EXTREMELY lightly :)

I've started dyeing with professional acid dyes and had great response in my etsy shop.


I got a spinning wheel...a used Ashford Traveller, single drive, single treadle.


We had another handmade Christmas this year...which meant I was knitting for other people for MONTHS.


And now I finally have knitted something for ME...my first sweater! To top it off, I "competed" in the 2nd Ravelympics and have received my first "medal" for finishing my sweater.


I mentioned to dh last night that my wrists needed a break so I wasn't ready to start my second Ravelympics project yet. He said, "I guess knitting isn't an endurance event." I said, "Yes it is...but I was sprinting." I knit my sweater in 8 days! If you don't knit, trust me...that's fast :)LOL


Pattern: Amused by Jordana Paige (with mods to collar & for cardigan)
Yarn: 6.5 skeins of Cascade 220 in "dark plum"
More notes on my Raverly project page.
I ♥ Ravelry

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Serendipity: Pooling = Stripes

I've been pretty lucky recently when knitting with hand dyed yarns. Through no planning on my part I've gotten some really cool striping looks. Some are my own hand dyed and some are from more well-known sources. The only thing I did intentionally was attempt to match up the beginnings of the colorways on the sock pairs.

Here are some examples:



Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport held double stranded to get 5x7 gauge


Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock


Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport


These are more like "opposite socks" :D
My own hand dyed sock yarn (Fingerpaints Sock)


My own hand dyed aran wt (Fingerpaints Worsted/Aran)


Fingerpaints Worsted/Aran


This was a close one :D
More Fingerpaints Worsted/Aran

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Breathe In Those Kool Aid Fumes!

This is a bit belated, but in January I began selling my hand dyed yarns in my esty shop.
I named my creations "Fingerpaints" and have various weights available. Most of it is non-superwash worsted weight, but I have done some sport and sock weight too.

In February, I added hand dyed roving. I have now replenished my undyed stash and have about 5 lbs of yarn waiting for the dye pot :)

Here's what I added to the shop in January & February. Some have sold, but I still have several currently for sale. I'll also be adding more as I work my way through the new stock.







Superwash Merino Rovings:



And three that I'm saving for my kids:

This one has already been knit into shorties for ds.

Slip Stitch Striped Sock Pattern

I'm REALLY behind on writing up some of my patterns, but here is one I just did that seems to be of interest to a few people. It's for socks...go figure :)LOL

Slip Stitch Striped Socks

I am all about customizing the size of my socks...because I have large feet. So don't be afraid of some knitter's math here. That way you can also use this pattern for different yarn weights, too. Pattern is written for toe-up socks on two circulars or magic loop method.



Here I used one skein of Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport in the "Grumperina" colorway. That's right ONE skein for my size 11 feet! Yes, I did augment with a bit of light purple :)LOL

A few notes:
I use the Magic Cast On method described in Knitty Spring '06 with one slight modification. I do not make a slip knot to begin. I simply take the yarn and wrap it around the top needle to begin. This eliminates the nasty bump I was getting with the slip knot.

Toes and heels are knit using a short rows that do not involve wrapping stitches. This is not my original idea, just how I knit them. Here is another slightly different description of how to work these. Also, I am a LOOSE knitter! Seriously, I use 000 needles to get 8spi with fingering weight yarn. So if you are a "normal" knitter, you may have trouble picking up the "bars" with your size 1 or 2's. Instead you may try a small gauge dpn or crochet hook to help you pick up these bars to close your toes & heels.

I like to add some 2x1 ribbing to the underside of my socks along the arch...but you don't have to.

The bind off method I describe here is something I came up with after learning how to do Kitchener stitch (without a tapestry needle) but before I learned there was something called a "faux Kitchener bind off." My method produces a similar result.

Knitter's Math:
Knit a gauge swatch.
Measure your stitches per inch = ______ (A) spi
Measure the circumference of the widest part of your foot (usually the ball) = _____ (B) inches

Calculate number of sts to cast on.
_______(A) x _______ (B) x 0.9 = ______ (C)

Round C to nearest multiple of 4 = _____(D) sts

Measure length of foot = ______ (E) inches

Calculate length of sock: ( _______(E) x 0.9) - 2 = ________ (F) inches (round to nearest 1/4 in)

Pattern:
CO the calculated number of stitches (D) using Magic Cast On. Reserve half stitches on one circular.

Begin short row toe. Knit across until one st remains on the left needle. Turn work. Slip first st purlwise. Making sure there is minimal slack in the working yarn, purl across until one st remains on left needle. Turn work. Making sure there is minimal slack in the working yarn, knit across until two sts remain on the left needle. Turn work. Continue in this manner until you have approximately 1/3 of your sts slipped on the left needle, 1/3 slipped on the right needle, and 1/3 remaining as live stitches in the center of the work...ending with a purl row.

Close short row toe. Turn work. Making sure there is minimal slack in the working yarn, knit across until you reach the first slipped st (one st before the gap). Slip the next stitch knitwise.
Using the right needle lift the bar between the just slipped stitch and the next stitch on the left needle (it will be on the wrong side of the work). Knit these together as if perfoming a SSK. Turn work. Slip the first st purlwise and purl across until you reach the first slipped st (one st before the gap). Slip the next stitch purlwise. Using the right needle, lift the bar between the just slipped stitch and the next stitch on the left needle (it will be on the wrong side of the work). Slip the bar and the slipped stitch from the right needle to the left & p2tog. Turn work. Continue in this manner until no more gaps remain, ending in a purl row. Turn work. You should have one stitch on the right needle and the remaining sts on the left needle.

Close the gaps. In order to close the gaps b/w the toe and foot, slip purlwise the next st on your left needle (there are now 2 sts on the right). Knit across the remaining sts on needle 1 until 1 stitch remains on the left needle. With the right needle moving from front to back, pick up the side of the knit stitch laying below the gap (not the bar b/w sts). Now slip the last live stitch knitwise & perform a SSK. For needle 2, ktbl across needle 2 (1st time only). Count this as Round 1. At the start of Round 2, sl1 purlwise. Then with the right needle moving from back to front, pick up the side of the knit stitch laying below the gap (not the bar b/w sts). Slip these two sts back on the left needle and k2tog. The picked up sts can be pulled tight later and the slack redistributed. Knit a total of 5 rounds.

Begin slip stitch pattern. I am writing this for stripes spaced every 4 sts. The stripe pattern is different in the picture than this because what I did would be confusing & I wanted this pattern to be more "universal." You can adjust where your slipped stitch stripes are depending on how you want your sock to look (i.e. evenly space, thick midline stripe, etc.). You'll just have to work out the math yourself ;)
Round 6: *K2, sl1, k1 repeat from * across needle 1. Knit all sts on needle 2.
Round 7: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rnd 6 & 7 until work measures F inches.

Begin short row heel. Knit across needle 1. On needle 2, work the heel exactly the same way as the toe (note that the needle #s will be opposite). Close the gaps in the same manner as well while resuming the slip st pattern on needle 1.

Resume leg of sock. Continue repeating Rnds 6 & 7 for 8 more rounds (9 total). On 10th round, knit needle 1 as before. For needle 2, continue the slip stitch stripe pattern.. Work leg until it is the desired height. Work 2x2 ribbing for 1/2 to 2 inches.

Try on sock. Take working yarn and wrap around your leg 3 times. Cut working yarn here. This is the length of yarn you'll need to perform the bind off and not run out. If you are trying to conserve yarn, you can go with 2.5 times instead. You should not need to get another needle to perform this bind off. Make sure stitches are situated so that you are starting with either 2 knit or 2 purl stitches. Be sure to work LOOSELY. Having to pull out this bind off is not fun.

Bind off:

Step 1: Insert right needle into first stitch purlwise. Wrap yarn as if to purl and draw working yarn completely through the stitch (leave this st on the left needle).

Step 2: Insert right needle into second stitch knitwise. Wrap yarn as if to knit and draw working yarn completely through the stitch (leave this st on the left needle).

At this point give the two sts you are binding a gentle separating tug so that they are not too tightly bound together.

Step 3: Loosely wrap yarn from the front around to the back of the sts. You can hold it in place with your left thumb while performing the next step so as to keep everything loose.

Step 4: Insert right needle into first stitch knitwise. Wrap yarn as if to knit and draw working yarn completely through the stitch. Drop this stitch off the needle.

Step 5: Insert right needle into first stitch purlwise. Wrap yarn as if to purl and draw working yarn completely through the stitch. Drop this stitch off the needle.

Repeat steps 1-5 until all sts are bound off.

If you were doing two socks at a time, YOU'RE DONE! If not, go back and start again for sock #2.

Please let me know if you find any errors or points of confusion.

3/13/09: Fixed some typos, added to notes section, and added gap closing instructions b/w heel & foot.
3/17/09: Added note about length of tail when binding off if conserving yarn.
3/19/09: Corrected instructions for closing the gaps on toes & heels.
5/3/09: Edit "Close the gap" instructions.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Homespun Goodness

I finally plied my singles for the sock monkeys I want to make for the kiddos. I was able to meet up with my spinning buddy on Monday night to use her wheel.

I started with my first wheel spun single: 2 oz of white corridale


And plied it with two 2oz singles of gray BFL/Corrie X that I spun on my kick spindle.



Here are the results:


Both skeins came out to be 68 yds! Don't know how I managed that! The first one has a few spots where the ply twist is underspun but we were having some trouble with friction in the wheel. The second skein is much more even. Over all I am VERY HAPPY with the results.

I even have some of the corriedale left over. It's from the inner bobbin and was some of the first stuff I spun on the wheel (back in October) when I had the tension set too high...boy is that some ENERGETIC yarn!! :)LOL