Sunday, June 23, 2013

Knitted Knockers in the Round

When ds was born, I was determined to get the breastfeeding thing right the second time around.  I was fortunate enough to find an amazing IBLC staff and a wonderful breastfeeding support group at Pekin Hospital to help me.  DS nursed until he was 38months old.

Recently, the head lactation consultant put a call out for knitted breasts.

This is my version of the pattern by Carolyn Westcott IBLC, but using circular knitting and thicker yarn.

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic
Gauge 5sts per inch
Needles: 32” or 40” circular needle in the size needed to get gauge and a tapestry needle for grafting

Pattern:
Using long tail cast on, cast on 60 sts. Divide sts for magic loop knitting. Mark the beginning of the round.
Knit 15 rounds.

Decrease Rounds:
Rnd 1: (K4, k2tog) 10 times (50 sts)
Rnd 2 and all even rounds: knit
Rnd 3: (K3, k2tog) 10 times (40 sts)
After Round 4, change to darker colored yarn and continue
Rnd 5: (K2, k2tog) 10 times (30 sts)
Rnd 7: (K1, k2tog) 10 times (20 sts)
Rnd 9: k2tog 10 times (10 sts)
Rnd 10-13: knit
Break yarn leaving about 6” tail and pull through all sts. Pull the tail through to the wrong side of work and run it through some sts around the base of the nipple. Pull gently to create definition at the base of the nipple. Tie off.

Base:
With right side facing you, pick up and knit 60sts along the cast on edge. Divide sts for magic loop knitting. Mark the beginning of the round.

Rnd 1: Knit
Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit
Rnd 3: (K4, k2tog) 10 times (50 sts)
Rnd 5: (K3, k2tog) 10 times (40 sts)
Rnd 7: (K2, k2tog) 10 times (30 sts)
Rnd 9: (K1, k2tog) 10 times (20 sts)
Stuff with filling of your choice.
Rnd 11: k2tog 10 times (10 sts)

With sts divided on 2 needles, break yarn leaving a 12” tail. Kitchener graft remaining sts closed.

You can also start with ribbing, add stockinette rows, and omit the base to make a baby hat ;)

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Rainbow Invasion!

About 9 months ago I introduced some self-striping rainbow sock yarns to my Etsy shop: Munchkin Knitworks.  Since then, I have barely had a chance to take a break from dyeing.

These are the four main versions that I can repeat reliably.  Clockwise from top left: Rainbow Princess, Bright Rainbow, Mellow Rainbow, and Sassy Rainbow.


 Here is a swatch I knit with "Mellow Rainbow."  It is 64sts around and approx. 9sts per inch.
Thanks to dh for being my photography assistant ;)

 

I do enjoy surrounding myself with rainbows, but I am planning some new self-striping colorways for spring.

And another pair of Bright Rainbows sold while I was typing ;)

Thursday, February 9, 2012

You know you have a dyeing problem....

...when you're lusting over a turkey roaster.

THIS turkey roaster: the Nesco 18qt electric turkey roaster with (now this is the important part) the stainless steel cookwell!

I've destroyed 2 cheaper roasters that had coated cookwells. Now I have to dye everything in a separate jar or bowl because the pan is rusty & gross. But with this baby I can actually considering dyeing 2 or more skeins at the same time again! I haven't been able to do that since dh made me promise to stop using my 50's era roaster with the thick enamel-coated cookwell because it was a fire hazard. ::rolls eyes::

Gotta keep saving the pennies...

Saturday, January 21, 2012

How the USM saved Christmas!

I'd like to thank my USM (Ultimate Sweater Machine) for saving Christmas 2011. When November rolled around, I had virtually no Christmas knitting done. I have 13 people to knit for...what was I thinking? I had procrastinated till fall to start the "Sweater Vest of DOOM" (aka my dad's 3X vest with dk weight yarn). My mom had given me a bag of yarn & a pattern to magically turn into a poncho for her...but what about everyone else?

First, I started with some flip-top mittens...but, of course I didn't like any of the patterns I found so I had to write my own. This was already taking too long... Plus, I can't use wool for half the people so I still needed more ideas.

Finally, one day I looked at my mountain of partial skeins of various acrylics from past presents for my nephews & kids. I knew what I had to do...striped scarves!

So, the kids got some ninja/superhero/ski mask type hats that were done on the USM too. And then I had to make some striped wool scarves to go with the flip-top mittens I made. And MIL got a scarf from us last year...so I made some dishcloths for her instead.

PHEW!

That was 9 scarves, 4 hats, 4 dishclothes, and one HUMONGOUS sweater vest! All done on my USM :D Using convention circular needles, I knit 3 pairs of gloves, one hat, my mother's poncho and dh's socks...I'm finally on the cuffs now...yes, I know it's already January ;)

Here's a pic of a mitten/scarf combo.


The kids (2 nephews & my 2 munchkins) loved their ninja/superhero accessories. Her scarf is around her neck & hanging down her back...like a cape ;)


Can't forget the dishcloths ;)


And the largest garment I have ever knitted FIT my dad!
This vest could be a whole 'nother blog post...so I'll link my project page instead: Dad's Vest



I'm so glad the holidays are over now :D

Friday, January 20, 2012

Top Down, No Swatch Hat Pattern

I recently wrote up and uploaded a pdf to Ravelry for a top-down hat pattern/recipe that I've been toying with for a couple years.

The link: Top Down, No Swatch Hat
Here's a pic of the most recent hat I made.


Several of my first attempts used Judy's Magic Cast On at the top, but I didn't like the tight line it made with yarns thicker than fingering weight. So, the solution was a simple long-tail cast on that is closed up with the tail yarn when you're done.


I've also made a few double-layered hats with this recipe. For that variation, you just double the amount of ribbed cuff, repeat the plain stockinette section, then reverse the shaping by doing mirrored decreases. Finally finishing off by grafting. Here's a link to my Flickr pic showing one of these hats. I can't find the file to upload it here...it must be on my old PC...

Monday, November 7, 2011

Kitchen Dyeing Yarn: The Basics

This is a page I created for the "What a Kool Way to Dye" discussion forum on Ravelry. I am republishing it here so that it can be used as a resource for those who are not part of Ravelry.

So, you want to dye some yarn in your kitchen, huh?

What do you need?
protein-based fiber (usually pre-soaked)
acid
artificial colors
heat

What happens?
These ingredients undergo a chemical reaction that bonds the color to the protein.

Results?
Hand-dyed yarn or spinning fiber

Types of protein fiber
Wool is the most widely used protein fiber when dyeing with acid dyes. However, other fibers will take acid dyed colors as well. Here’s a partial list.

Wool
Alpaca
Angora
Llama
Silk
Nylon (the only synthetic that this will work on)
Odd fibers
Milk
Soy
Some have had difficulty with soy, but chemically it should work. My personal experience was that it took higher temps (~210F) for a longer time. I also added more acid for good measure.

Basically, any animal hair should work. However, I’ve heard that dog hair does not work (someone can correct me if I’m wrong) and it may vary with the breed as well. Milk-based yarn is made with protein as well. If so it should also take acid dyes.

Here is a great blog post by brewergnome that discusses the chemistry of what dyes with acid dyes & what doesn’t.

Dyeing 101: The Chemistry of Fibers - Soy, Milk, Chitin, Etc.

Sources of Artificial Color
Kool-Aid (the packets that make 2qts & have no sugar or artificial sweetener)
Any generic version of this is fine as long as the ingredients state an FD & C numbered artificial color.
Klass drink mix (the acid in these is Fumaric acid)
Food coloring (liquid or gel)--not “gel writers”
Common U.S. brands are McCormicks and Betty Crocker.
Wilton’s Icing Colors (not white)
Easter egg tablets
Sugar-free Jello (some have gotten gelatin residue in their yarn…I will see if I can find the trick to avoid this)

Types of Acid
Vinegar
Lemon Juice
Citric acid
This is an ingredient in the Kool Aid packets mentioned above so you don't need to add more acid. It is also sold as "Fruit Fresh" in the grocery store or can be purchased in bulk from dyeing suppliers.*
Invisible Kool Aid (in packets)
This is basically the same as using citric acid

Sources of Heat
The trick to heating is that you need to get near boiling and hold it there for long enough that the color will exhaust (complete bonding). For example, wool’s target temp is 170F and silk is 180F. A meat probe or candy thermometer can come in handy to monitor this. For non-superwash fiber, boiling will lead to felting.

Stove top (stock pot or steamer basket)
Crock Pot
Microwave
Rice Steamer
Oven
Dishwasher (steam)
Solar

Have fun dyeing!

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Return to Black Socks

It's been just over 2 years since I first tried to attend the shearing day at Black Socks Sheep & Wool. Well, today we finally made it :)

Oh, the anticipation!


Shearer in action.


A naked sheep :)LOL


A few lambs :D


We couldn't stay the whole time cuz dd got sick, but she liked the lambs and black wool the best.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Mini-Striping Test Swatch

I have a few new colorways in my etsy shop that are "mini-striping." Some people have asked me "How does that knit up?" Well, instead of guessing, I knit a test swatch. This is a 4-color skein called "Earth That Was." It is fingering wt and knit at 8 sts per inch. The length of each color section is approximately equal (this dyelot had a shorter white section than usual).

Here it is...click on it to enlarge.


I've labeled how many sts around each area is. It got a little funky near the top because of the bend in the needle's cable.

Here's my observations at the different diameters:
16-20sts = nice mini-stripes
24-28sts = subtle spiral stripes
32-36sts = looks a bit variegated
40-48sts = funky pooling
52-56 = subtle mini- stripes
60sts = looks variegated again
64-80sts = spiral stripes that get wider as the diameter increases
84sts = the stripes start to turn the other direction.

Somewhere b/w 80 & 84 sts around you could get stable vertical pooling colors...maybe at 82sts or maybe at 84sts but knit at a tighter gauge (like 9-10spi).

The colorways that I've dyed recently that are like this: "Earth That Was/Mini-Stripes," "Green Glow/Mini-Stripes," "Browncoat/Mini-Stripes," and "Alliance Cruiser." Just remember that every knitter's gauge is different and your results may vary. Thank you to "craftdungeon" for letting me swatch from her skein :)

Monday, April 5, 2010

Addicted to Spinning

The Ravelympics took a lot out of me. I not only knit my first sweater, but also a heavily cabled hat, a pair of man-sized socks, and my first laceweight & beaded wrap...all in 17 days! Since then, I finished up a couple of outstanding WIPs (works in progress) and found I was not really motivated to start anything in my queue.

What to do??? Get back on the wheel, of course...the spinning wheel.

So I have finally finished spinning my first singles (single ply yarns) on my spinning wheel. And last night I tried something new...I Navajo plied one of them. Here are some pics.

Roving that I dyed with Easter egg dyes last year (superwash merino).


After plying and skeining on the niddy noddy.


A close-up


I still have the other half to ply...but that can wait till tonight :)LOL

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Selfish Knitting & Ravelympics

Wow! It's been AGES since I wrote something here. At least I can be rest assured that there aren't throngs of people who have been chomping at the bit to know what I've been up to :)LOL

Anyway...since we last met our "hero"
(term used EXTREMELY lightly :)

I've started dyeing with professional acid dyes and had great response in my etsy shop.


I got a spinning wheel...a used Ashford Traveller, single drive, single treadle.


We had another handmade Christmas this year...which meant I was knitting for other people for MONTHS.


And now I finally have knitted something for ME...my first sweater! To top it off, I "competed" in the 2nd Ravelympics and have received my first "medal" for finishing my sweater.


I mentioned to dh last night that my wrists needed a break so I wasn't ready to start my second Ravelympics project yet. He said, "I guess knitting isn't an endurance event." I said, "Yes it is...but I was sprinting." I knit my sweater in 8 days! If you don't knit, trust me...that's fast :)LOL


Pattern: Amused by Jordana Paige (with mods to collar & for cardigan)
Yarn: 6.5 skeins of Cascade 220 in "dark plum"
More notes on my Raverly project page.
I ♥ Ravelry

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Serendipity: Pooling = Stripes

I've been pretty lucky recently when knitting with hand dyed yarns. Through no planning on my part I've gotten some really cool striping looks. Some are my own hand dyed and some are from more well-known sources. The only thing I did intentionally was attempt to match up the beginnings of the colorways on the sock pairs.

Here are some examples:



Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport held double stranded to get 5x7 gauge


Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock


Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport


These are more like "opposite socks" :D
My own hand dyed sock yarn (Fingerpaints Sock)


My own hand dyed aran wt (Fingerpaints Worsted/Aran)


Fingerpaints Worsted/Aran


This was a close one :D
More Fingerpaints Worsted/Aran

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Breathe In Those Kool Aid Fumes!

This is a bit belated, but in January I began selling my hand dyed yarns in my esty shop.
I named my creations "Fingerpaints" and have various weights available. Most of it is non-superwash worsted weight, but I have done some sport and sock weight too.

In February, I added hand dyed roving. I have now replenished my undyed stash and have about 5 lbs of yarn waiting for the dye pot :)

Here's what I added to the shop in January & February. Some have sold, but I still have several currently for sale. I'll also be adding more as I work my way through the new stock.







Superwash Merino Rovings:



And three that I'm saving for my kids:

This one has already been knit into shorties for ds.

Slip Stitch Striped Sock Pattern

I'm REALLY behind on writing up some of my patterns, but here is one I just did that seems to be of interest to a few people. It's for socks...go figure :)LOL

Slip Stitch Striped Socks

I am all about customizing the size of my socks...because I have large feet. So don't be afraid of some knitter's math here. That way you can also use this pattern for different yarn weights, too. Pattern is written for toe-up socks on two circulars or magic loop method.



Here I used one skein of Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sport in the "Grumperina" colorway. That's right ONE skein for my size 11 feet! Yes, I did augment with a bit of light purple :)LOL

A few notes:
I use the Magic Cast On method described in Knitty Spring '06 with one slight modification. I do not make a slip knot to begin. I simply take the yarn and wrap it around the top needle to begin. This eliminates the nasty bump I was getting with the slip knot.

Toes and heels are knit using a short rows that do not involve wrapping stitches. This is not my original idea, just how I knit them. Here is another slightly different description of how to work these. Also, I am a LOOSE knitter! Seriously, I use 000 needles to get 8spi with fingering weight yarn. So if you are a "normal" knitter, you may have trouble picking up the "bars" with your size 1 or 2's. Instead you may try a small gauge dpn or crochet hook to help you pick up these bars to close your toes & heels.

I like to add some 2x1 ribbing to the underside of my socks along the arch...but you don't have to.

The bind off method I describe here is something I came up with after learning how to do Kitchener stitch (without a tapestry needle) but before I learned there was something called a "faux Kitchener bind off." My method produces a similar result.

Knitter's Math:
Knit a gauge swatch.
Measure your stitches per inch = ______ (A) spi
Measure the circumference of the widest part of your foot (usually the ball) = _____ (B) inches

Calculate number of sts to cast on.
_______(A) x _______ (B) x 0.9 = ______ (C)

Round C to nearest multiple of 4 = _____(D) sts

Measure length of foot = ______ (E) inches

Calculate length of sock: ( _______(E) x 0.9) - 2 = ________ (F) inches (round to nearest 1/4 in)

Pattern:
CO the calculated number of stitches (D) using Magic Cast On. Reserve half stitches on one circular.

Begin short row toe. Knit across until one st remains on the left needle. Turn work. Slip first st purlwise. Making sure there is minimal slack in the working yarn, purl across until one st remains on left needle. Turn work. Making sure there is minimal slack in the working yarn, knit across until two sts remain on the left needle. Turn work. Continue in this manner until you have approximately 1/3 of your sts slipped on the left needle, 1/3 slipped on the right needle, and 1/3 remaining as live stitches in the center of the work...ending with a purl row.

Close short row toe. Turn work. Making sure there is minimal slack in the working yarn, knit across until you reach the first slipped st (one st before the gap). Slip the next stitch knitwise.
Using the right needle lift the bar between the just slipped stitch and the next stitch on the left needle (it will be on the wrong side of the work). Knit these together as if perfoming a SSK. Turn work. Slip the first st purlwise and purl across until you reach the first slipped st (one st before the gap). Slip the next stitch purlwise. Using the right needle, lift the bar between the just slipped stitch and the next stitch on the left needle (it will be on the wrong side of the work). Slip the bar and the slipped stitch from the right needle to the left & p2tog. Turn work. Continue in this manner until no more gaps remain, ending in a purl row. Turn work. You should have one stitch on the right needle and the remaining sts on the left needle.

Close the gaps. In order to close the gaps b/w the toe and foot, slip purlwise the next st on your left needle (there are now 2 sts on the right). Knit across the remaining sts on needle 1 until 1 stitch remains on the left needle. With the right needle moving from front to back, pick up the side of the knit stitch laying below the gap (not the bar b/w sts). Now slip the last live stitch knitwise & perform a SSK. For needle 2, ktbl across needle 2 (1st time only). Count this as Round 1. At the start of Round 2, sl1 purlwise. Then with the right needle moving from back to front, pick up the side of the knit stitch laying below the gap (not the bar b/w sts). Slip these two sts back on the left needle and k2tog. The picked up sts can be pulled tight later and the slack redistributed. Knit a total of 5 rounds.

Begin slip stitch pattern. I am writing this for stripes spaced every 4 sts. The stripe pattern is different in the picture than this because what I did would be confusing & I wanted this pattern to be more "universal." You can adjust where your slipped stitch stripes are depending on how you want your sock to look (i.e. evenly space, thick midline stripe, etc.). You'll just have to work out the math yourself ;)
Round 6: *K2, sl1, k1 repeat from * across needle 1. Knit all sts on needle 2.
Round 7: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rnd 6 & 7 until work measures F inches.

Begin short row heel. Knit across needle 1. On needle 2, work the heel exactly the same way as the toe (note that the needle #s will be opposite). Close the gaps in the same manner as well while resuming the slip st pattern on needle 1.

Resume leg of sock. Continue repeating Rnds 6 & 7 for 8 more rounds (9 total). On 10th round, knit needle 1 as before. For needle 2, continue the slip stitch stripe pattern.. Work leg until it is the desired height. Work 2x2 ribbing for 1/2 to 2 inches.

Try on sock. Take working yarn and wrap around your leg 3 times. Cut working yarn here. This is the length of yarn you'll need to perform the bind off and not run out. If you are trying to conserve yarn, you can go with 2.5 times instead. You should not need to get another needle to perform this bind off. Make sure stitches are situated so that you are starting with either 2 knit or 2 purl stitches. Be sure to work LOOSELY. Having to pull out this bind off is not fun.

Bind off:

Step 1: Insert right needle into first stitch purlwise. Wrap yarn as if to purl and draw working yarn completely through the stitch (leave this st on the left needle).

Step 2: Insert right needle into second stitch knitwise. Wrap yarn as if to knit and draw working yarn completely through the stitch (leave this st on the left needle).

At this point give the two sts you are binding a gentle separating tug so that they are not too tightly bound together.

Step 3: Loosely wrap yarn from the front around to the back of the sts. You can hold it in place with your left thumb while performing the next step so as to keep everything loose.

Step 4: Insert right needle into first stitch knitwise. Wrap yarn as if to knit and draw working yarn completely through the stitch. Drop this stitch off the needle.

Step 5: Insert right needle into first stitch purlwise. Wrap yarn as if to purl and draw working yarn completely through the stitch. Drop this stitch off the needle.

Repeat steps 1-5 until all sts are bound off.

If you were doing two socks at a time, YOU'RE DONE! If not, go back and start again for sock #2.

Please let me know if you find any errors or points of confusion.

3/13/09: Fixed some typos, added to notes section, and added gap closing instructions b/w heel & foot.
3/17/09: Added note about length of tail when binding off if conserving yarn.
3/19/09: Corrected instructions for closing the gaps on toes & heels.
5/3/09: Edit "Close the gap" instructions.